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Gotcha! I was so hung up on FAKA, I forgot you were doing a FAW or RAW. You need to be concerned with stretch of your trigger line more than anything. I would suggest a thin steel cable permanently attached at the middle of the base and have a small loop at the other end. It looks like you have that set up right now if that is what your yellow line is doing. Two eye screws on the end of your arm with the small loop of cable between them and a small pin with a string going through all 3 loops / eye screws.

I might also suggest a turnbuckle in the middle of that cable so you can adjust the length a little easier for fine tuning, plus it will make it drop quicker to the floor of the treb.

Tom

Thanks for the suggestion Tommy. Yes the yellow line is the attachment to the trigger assembly which consists of a bushing with a bolt holding the line, (which actually is a cargo strap),on the end of the arm is an yoke in the center bolted through the arm cheeks. I slide the bushing over the yoke and insert a the release pin. The holes in the bushing are opposing.

I saw the video of your first shot. Looks like you have "opportunities" to tune the thing a bit better. Two things that jump out are that there's a tremendous amount of arm swing-through and the CW winds up going backward instead of down, once it reaches a certain point. It's pretty common with small whippers to have a pause in the arm's travel just before it goes straight up, but yours doesn't. Whether this is from a very light ball, heavy arm (doesn't look like that) or short sling is hard to tell. The raised ball holder is interesting. In conjunction with the short sling that will give you a very quick sling, possibly too quick.

I have two suggestions: increase the angle between the arm and CW and move the ball holder back very close to the axle, increasing the sling length to match, of course.

Thank you very much for your observation Thomas. I would ask for your input about placement of and type of prop apparatus to gain a better gap angle?

I'd like to see some photos of your arm and CW hanger before making any firm suggestions, but you could try placing some pieces of wood between the hanger arms and the axle as a temporary means of increasing the angle. You'd obviously need to change the trigger to lower the arm or your CW might fall over backward.

On our smaller whippers we've used a piece of all-thread and a swivel foot, which has allowed for any prop angle adjustment we saw fit. I don't have a great image of any of them, but the attached is from Janus, and worked well. The silver arm on the left is the throwing arm, and the black arm is the hanger arm, the picture is shown with the machine cocked. Threading the foot further in or out changed the prop angle nicely.

I agree with Thomas that you likely need to increase the prop angle. Typical arm-hanger separation is usually in the 30-35 degree range in my experience, it at least makes for a good starting point.

Separation angle can be all over the place, not sure what it depends on, maybe the beam ratio. When I was really active with whippers I favored B/Rs between 6:1 and 8:1 and narrow angles worked best for me. (In retrospect, some of the stuff I was convinced was cutting-edge was actually counterproductive in practice. Took years to figure that out.)

Thomas wrote:Separation angle can be all over the place, not sure what it depends on, maybe the beam ratio. When I was really active with whippers I favored B/Rs between 6:1 and 8:1 and narrow angles worked best for me. (In retrospect, some of the stuff I was convinced was cutting-edge was actually counterproductive in practice. Took years to figure that out.)

Well, that's a fair point, I've never tried anything other than between roughly 5:1 and 6:1, so that could be why my prop angles always seemed to be in roughly the same range.

Where is the video? Youtube?

Hi Tommy; Here's the link to the video https://www.facebook.com/pages/SiegeMas ... 8883205859. Please let me know what you think. Thanks.